Patan

 

Rudravarna Mahavihar

also known as Uku Bahal. A gem of a temple close to Mahaboudha, but much less visited. One of the oldest temples in the Kathmandu Valley with some strange and interesting statues.

Machchhendranath temple

This is a good illustration of the problems now faced with theft of artifacts. The temple is now surrounded by a strong fence and each statue has its own individual fence. Statues are missing from two stands, suggesting that the temple has already fallen victim. Machchhendranath also gives his name to an annual festival when a 25 meter tall "chariot" is paraded through Patan. If you note all the wires and cables across the streets at levels much lower than 25m. you can realise what a complicated exercise this is. The parade takes place between April and June, with the chariot staying the night at different locations. The end of the parade is supposed to coincide with the onset of the monsoon rains. The wheels of the chariot are over 2m in diameter. For the rest of the year these can be seen in the building next to the Ashok Stupa see below.

North of Durbar Square

 

South of Durbar Square

durbar square

Durbar Square is the Palace Square of Patan. Approaching the square from the south end you have the palace on your right and a series of temples on your left. Admission to the area for tourists is R200. You are trusted to pay this at a booth at the south end of Durbar Square or at another entrance to the area further to the north as there is no formal ticket control.

The Palace was built on the site of a fort that stood until 1734 and served as the residence of the Malla rulers of the then Patan state. It is divided up into a succession of courtyards or “chowks”. Unfortunately only the last of these on the right which houses the museum is open on a regular basis, due to problems with theft of artifacts. Try peering through cracks in the doors to see what you are missing! The first palace building is Sundari Chowk which was constructed in 1647. The three-storey temple on the palace side is the Degutale temple, constructed in 1661 after an earlier one burned down. Mul Chowk was the central part of the old palace and in recent times has suffered much theft of ornamental woodwork.

The Museum is in Keshab Narayan Chowk. Admission to the courtyard is free; entrance fee for the museum is R250. Hours 10.30 to 17.30. An excellent and well-presented little museum with descriptions of various artistic techniques.

There is a confusing array of temples and other interesting items on the left-hand side of the square. Again, walking from the south end of the square, you pass:

Octagonal stone Krishna temple, constructed in 1647.

A huge bell that dates back to 1737 and is still rung once a year.

The Shankar Narayan temple, with kneeling stone elephants in front.

The temple with a statue of Yognarendra on a pillar in front.

Two smaller temples dedicated to Vishnu, dating back to 1590 and 1652.

The oldest temple in the complex, dating back to 1566.

A stone temple to Krishna, considered to be a masterpiece, with some amazing stonework. Note the Garuda on the pillar in front, which has eyes of crystal.

The Vishwanath temple, with two stone elephants and riders in front.

The Bhimsen temple, constructed in 1680 but with more recent marble additions.